Knitting 2 Socks at One Time on 1 Long Circular Needle

Knitting Basic Toe-Up Socks Using the “Magic Loop” Circular Method
Two Socks on One Circular

This pattern includes instructions for knitting TWO socks at one time from the toe up using a 40” circular needle.

Materials:

100 Grams of Sock weight or Fingering weight yarn. Either use 2 skeins of 50 grams each or divide your 100 gram skein into two balls.

US size 1 or 2 - 40” circular knitting needle – or size needed to work with your weight of yarn for a gauge of approximately 7 or 8 stitches per inch. With this method, you can try the socks on as you go to make sure you get them the correct size.

Special Stitches:

M1L: Make 1 and Make 1 left – insert left needle, from FRONT to BACK, under the horizontal strand between last stitch worked and next stitch on the left needle, forming a loop on the needle. Knit through the BACK of this loop. (I like to use my right needle to lift the strand onto the left needle.)

M1R: Make 1 Right – Insert left needle, from back to front, under the horizontal strand between last stitch worked and next stitch on left needle, forming a loop on needle. Knit through the front of this loop. TIP: It is often difficult to get your needle into the loop, so I like to lift the stitch up with my right needle to loosen it and then hold the slack against the left needle with my finger while I insert the right needle.

SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit – Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Slide left needle through the front loops of these slipped stitches, from left to right, and knit them together from this position.

When knitting two socks at a time with the toe-up method, you first cast on one sock and knit at least 6 – 8 rows, then place this sock on holders while you cast on and knit the same number of rows for the second sock. You then return the first stock to the circular needles, making sure it is facing the same direction as the second sock. Once they are both on the same needle, you then continue knitting both socks at the same time – with one side of each sock on each side of the circular needle.

Using the figure 8 cast on method, loosely cast on 12 stitches for the first sock (this means to begin with 12 stitches on the top needle and 11 on the bottom needle which will become 12 on both needles after you complete the first two rows. (Click here for info on the Figure 8 Cast on). After knitting 6 – 8 rows, transfer this sock to your needle holders. Then repeat the cast on for your second sock using the second ball of yarn. Once you have knitted the same number of rows for the second sock, push both sides onto the cable (not all the way to the center, however – keep your loop of cable large enough to keep the sock divided in half. Then making sure you have the first sock positioned the same as the second sock – with the yarn coming from the same end of the same side, slide each side of this sock onto its respective end of the needle.

You will then push both socks onto the needle ends into home position, the same as if you were knitting one sock at a time, and pull the appropriate needle forward and knit the first half of the first (meaning first in position) sock. Drop the yarn for that sock, pick up the yarn for the second sock and knit across all those stitches. Return both socks to the needle ends, and repeat the process. You will continue working both socks in this manner until you begin the heel.

Round 2: K1, M1L, Knit to 1 stitch before end of sock, M1R, K1,*, change yarn and repeat between asterisks to complete the first half of the round. Repeat for second half of round.

Round 3: Knit entire row, changing needles at the halfway point. From now on, it will be assumed that you return to home position (with all stitches up on the needle points) at each needle change and then pull out the back needle (the one with the yarn attached) to being knitting off the front needle.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have a total of 56 stitches (for small to medium woman’s size) or 60 or 64 stitches (for medium to large woman’s size) for each sock - or until you try on the toe and it fits your foot or the circumference measurement is correct for the foot for which the sock is being made.

This is the time to snug up the loose cast-on stitches. First, tie a bit of yarn or attach a pin to mark the end which is the beginning of the row – the side OPPOSITE of the yarn tails. To do this, slide the work onto the cables with the yarn tails for both socks to your left. Find the first loose stitch on the right. Using a blunt tapestry needle, work across the cast on stitches from right to left, gently pulling the extra yarn out of each stitch until you read the last stitch, then pull on the tail to remove the excess yarn. Repeat for both socks.

Foot:

Increase Round: K1, M1L, Knit to 1 stitch before end of first needle, M1R, K1. Change needles and knit all stitches on second needle. Increases are made on first needle ONLY - which will become the heel side of the sock.

Continue knitting for 1 more inch, or until socks measure 2” less than length of foot.

Repeat the increase round. You will have 4 more stitches on the first or heel needle than on the second or instep needle.

Shaping the Heel:

Heel is worked for each sock – one at a time - on one needle, turning at the end of each row just as if you were working on 2 straight needles. Instep stitches remain on the other side of the cable until heel is complete and second sock is pushed back on the cable out of the way until the first sock’s heel is complete. Important: After each wrapped stitch, pull the needles apart gently to keep the yarn loose around the slipped stitches, then work the first stitch of the next row carefully to prevent tightening what you have loosened. This will help prevent holes along the edge of the heel.

Row 1. Knit until you have 4 stitches remaining on the first (heel) needle. Slip the next 2 stitches purlwise, yf, turn.

Row 2. Slip 1, yf, purl until you have 4 stitches remaining on the needle, slip 2, yb, turn. COUNT the number of stitches you purled on this row and make a note of that number. You can write a chart similar to the one below to help you keep track of your stitch count. This is VERY important in order to keep your heel centered.

Row 3. Slip 1, yb, knit 1 stitch less than you purled on the previous row, slip 2, yf, turn.

Row 4. Slip 1, yf, purl 1 stitch less than you knitted on the previous rose, slip 2, yb, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have approximately 12 or 13 stitches purled between the slipped stitches. Now the wrapping procedure is worked in the other direction.

Next Row: Slip 1, yb, knit 1 MORE stitch than you purled on the previous row, slip 2, yf, turn.

NOTE: You may begin a slip one - knit one stitch here on the knitted rows only to reinforce the heel. If you do this and find you would end with a slipped stitch before the regularly 2 slipped stitches, knit 2 in a row rather than slip 3 stitches. You may continue this on the instep side of the sock until you being the leg.

Sample counting chart for heel – check off each row as you knit. If you cast on more stitches to begin with, just add the extra rows at the top and bottom of the chart – if you cast on fewer stitches, but pick up the chart with the number you need to begin knitting with.

If you cast on 32 stitches for each half of the sock and increased on the heel side to 36 stitches, you will be working with 36 stitches for the heel. So on the first row of the heel, you will knit 32 stitches, slip 2 stitches, bring the yarn forward, and turn your work with 2 stitches still remaining on the one needle. Then you will purl back to the last 4 stitches, which would be 29 stitches. Slip 2 stitches, move the yarn to the back, and turn. The count for each subsequent row would be:

This should bring you back where work continues in the round.

Next Row: Slip 1, yf, purl 1 MORE stitch than you knitted on the previous row, slip 2 yb, turn.

Continue repeating these last 2 rows until you have only 2 stitches remaining after slipping the 2 stitches after purling across the row.

Round 1. Slip 1, yb, knit across to the last heel stitch, pick up the last wrap with the point of the left needle. Knit this wrap and the last stitch together. Do not turn. At this point, move the first sock onto the cable and repeat the heel shaping process for the second sock. Once it is completed, slide all stitches for both socks back to home position, pull out the back needle and knit across the instep stitches for both socks.

Round 2. At the beginning of the heel needle, slip the first stitch knitwise, pick up the wrap which is around the next stitch and place it on the tip of the right needle. Slide the tip of the left needle into the front loops of the wrap and the slipped stitch and knit them together from this position.

Knit across remaining heel stitches, change needles and knit across the instep stitches.

Decrease round: K1, ssk, knit until you have 3 stitches remaining on the needle, knit 2 together, k1, change needles and knit all instep stitches.

Repeat the decrease rounds until you have the same number of stitches on the heel needle as you have on the instep needle.

Knit another round even before beginning leg. If you were knitting a reinforced heel stitch, do NOT continue it with this row.

The legs and cuffs for both socks will be knitted at the same time, as the foot portions of the socks were.

Leg:

The leg of your sock can be knitted in plain stockinette stitch, in any type of ribbing, or in any other pattern you choose to use. I can also be knit to any length you like.

Cuff:

If you didn’t use ribbing on the leg, you may want to knit 1 or more inches of ribbing for the cuff of the sock. You could also knit a picot edge or just continue with stockinette if you like a rolled top. Anything goes! AND no grafting of toes necessary!

You may want to use a stretchier than usual cast off for the top if you ended with a ribbing.