Size: These socks will fit a Ladies size medium.

Yarn: 100 grams sock yarn of your choice

Gauge: 8 sts in stockinette = 1 inch

Needles:
1 Size Two or Three (US) 40” or 47” Circular (I prefer Addi Turbo needles) or size needed to knit to gauge.

Instructions:  
(If your foot is a littler larger ~shoe size 10 or larger~ or if the yarn doesn’t have a lot of “memory” ~stretch~ you can increase the number of stitches by multiples of 4.  I would suggest knitting a sample and trying it one over your ankle before continuing if you do want to increase the size.)  

(Here is a great link illustrating the following cast on:  http://files.blog-city.com/files/aa/3830/b/2on1n.html)

Cast On 28 sts. (or half the total number of stitches you want to use) from one ball of yarn (or from one end of single ball of yarn).  Switch to other ball (or other end) and cast on 56 stitches (or total number of stitches) from that ball.  Push all stitches to the center of the cable.  Find the center of the last 56 stitches you cast on and pull out loop, being careful not to pull needles through cast-on stitches.  Cast on second 28 stitches (or second half of total stitches) from the first ball (or end) of yarn to complete stitches for the first sock.   You should have yarn ends for both socks on the same side of the needles.  Be careful when casting on second half of stitches for the first sock that you keep the joining tight so you won’t have a gap.

Pull all stitches to their respective needle points, making sure stitches are not twisted and yarn is coming from back needle.  Holding needles in your left hand pointing to the right, pull back needle to the right, pushing its stitches back onto the cable.  Pull that needle around and begin your choice of ribbing by knitting/purling stitches on front needle.  I personally prefer a knit 2 purl 2 ribbing.  I find it helps to remember to place the yarn (coming from the ball(s) which you are knitting from) above the needles to keep it from twisting when you switch from needle to needle as you knit around.

Ribbing:  
Rib in Knit 2, Purl 2 (or your favorite ribbing) for 2 inches.  I find it helpful to avoid “ladders” (or gaps between stitches along edges) by knitting the first stitch, putting your needle into the second stitch and giving it a small tug to tighten up the yarn between the back needle and the first stitch on the front needle. Be sure to drop the yarn for the first sock and pick up the yarn for the second sock when you reach that point while knitting across.

As you finish knitting all the stitches for both socks from one needle, return the stitches to the needle points with yarn coming from back needle, then pull that needle forward and around to continue second half of that row and the same thing again as you begin each following row.

Leg/Cuff:  
Continue knitting in stockinette stitch (just continue knitting around and around on your circular needle) until your sock measures 7” or desired leg/cuff length.   Or if you want a ribbed cuff that you can turn town, just continue with the ribbing to the length you desire.

Heel:
Since you already have one-half (28) of your stitches for each sock on each side of the cable, you do not need to reposition any stitches before knitting your heel.  You will be working back and forth on just half the stitches for both socks.  The other half of the stitches will become the instep.  For now, they will rest on the cable ~ just ignore them.  You will NOT pull the back needle forward to begin the first row of the heel.  Instead, you will keep the back stitches on the needle point and use the other needle point to purl the first row across, etc.

You will be working on both heels (not just one) ~ just make sure you drop the yarn for the first heel before knitting the second heel and vice-versa!

Work the heel flap back and forth over the 28 stitches (or half the stitches) of both socks as follows:

Row 1: Slip first stitch purl wise then purl across the back of the heel flap to the last stitch – knit
             the last stitch.  Drop first yarn and pick up second yarn and repeat for second sock. Turn.

Row 2: Slip first stitch purl wise, knit 1, slip 1 across, ending with a knit stitch. Repeat for
             second sock. Turn.

Row 3: Slip first stitch purl wise then purl across the back of the heel flap to the last stitch – knit  
             the last stitch.  Repeat for second sock. Turn. (Repeat of row 1)

Row 4: Slip first two stitches, knit 1 slip 1 across ending with Knit last 2 stitches.  Repeat for
             second sock. Turn.

(This heel is called “Eye of Partridge” stitch and makes a cushiony, longer lasting heel.  Knitting the last stitch both directions will give you a better edge to pick up the gusset stitches from both sides of heel.)

Repeat these 4 rows until your heel is approximately 2 ½ inches long.  End with a purl row.

Turning The Heel:
You will be making short rows to shape a little "cup" for the heel.   Since you are knitting 2 socks at once, you will first turn one heel and pick up its gusset stitches and then pull those stitches onto the cable and turn the other heel.

Row 1: K 17, ssk, k 1, turn. (See instructions for SSK on following page.)  (If you began with
       more than 56 stitches: instead of 17 stitches, knit half of the stitches on the needle plus 3,
       then ssk, k1, turn. the follow the instructions below.)

Row 2: Slip 1, p 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 3: Slip 1, k 8, ssk, k 1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1, p 9, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 5: Slip 1, k 10, ssk, k 1, turn.

Row 6: Slip 1, p 11, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 7: Slip 1, k 12, ssk, k 1, turn.

Row 8: Slip 1, p 13, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 9: Slip 1, k 14, ssk, k 1, turn.

Row 10: Slip 1, p 15, p2tog, p 1, turn.

(If you began with more than 28 stitches on your heel, continue in this way, working 1 more stitch between decreases until all stitches have been worked.)  You should have used up all the stitches now and you should have 18 sts. remaining.

Turn sock and knit across these 18 stitches.  

Now you will be picking up the gusset stitches for the first heel and then you will turn the heel for the second sock and pick up its gusset stitches.

To Pick up Gusset Stitches:  
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a nice edge that will be easy to pick up. You should pick up 14 – 19 stitches on each side.  The important thing is to pick up the same number of stitches on each side of each sock!  Examine your sock carefully as you do this and pick enough stitches up to avoid having “holes” show.

To pick up the stitches, just reach under each sideways “V” of  the slipped stitches (so you are going under 2 the strands of yarn that lay on the edge) and pull your yarn through to make a new stitch on your needle.  If it is difficult for you to pull the yarn through, consider using a crochet hook to “catch” the yarn and then place it on your needlepoint.

Pick up the left-side gusset stitches following this first heel turning and pull all the heel and gusset stitches onto the cable.  (You will be picking up the instep stitches for this sock as you reposition it on the next round.)

Repeat the heel-turning process for the other sock EXCEPT when knitting across all stitches on the last row, knit across JUST HALF of these heel stitches (9) and place them on a stitch holder.  These stitches will be picked up for the other side as you knit around.

Knit the other half of these second heel stitches. Pick up the same number of gusset stitches along this side of the heel.  Place a marker here and then knit half of the instep stitches (14) for this sock.  Pull your needle and cable through.  This will be the new “splitting point” while you knit the gusset of your socks. 

Now knit the other HALF of the instep stitches, place a marker, and pick up the same number of gusset stitches on the side of this sock’s heel.  Now pick up the other half of the heel stitches that you have on the stitch holder!

You should now have this sock positioned correctly for knitting the gusset.

You now need to set up the first half of the instep stitches for the other sock to be placed on the other needle during the next round.  Making sure you switch to the proper strand of yarn, knit half of these stitches (14) and place them on your stitch holder.

Knit the second half of the instep stitches and place a marker.  Pick up the same number of gusset stitches on the second side of this sock’s heel and then knit half of the heel stitches (9).  Pull the cable through and reposition the all the stitches on the needle points.

You will now knit the next round, being sure to pick up the instep stitches you have on “hold” so they will be on the correct side of the cable.  Your socks should be positioned like this after you knit the first side of this round:

Continue knitting the other side of this round.  Pull needles back to the starting position and place some type of marker (I just tie a bit of yarn through one of the stitches) on this first side (with socks positioned as in photo above) to indicate that this side is the beginning side for knitting the gusset.

Gusset
You need to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56) for each sock.   These increases and decreases will be made in relationship to the markers.

Decrease Round: Knit to 3 sts before the end of heel stitches (indicated by the marker), K2tog, K1.  Knit across the instep sts.   Repeat this process for the second sock.  Turn to other side. Knit instep stitches to next marker.  Following the marker, knit 1 SSK, knit remaining heel stitches.  Repeat this process for the second sock.  Turn to other side.

Knit next round plain.

Repeat Decease Round every other round until you have 56 sts left for each sock (or the same number of stitches you began with, so you have an equal number of stitches on both sides).   The number of rounds to this point will depend on how many gusset stitches you picked up along the side of each heel.  As you make more pairs of socks, you will get a better idea of how long you should knit your heel flaps and how many stitches you should pick up to get the perfect fit for you.

Foot
Continue with stockinette stitch until the foot measures 2½" to 3” less than your foot length.  Measure from the heel where it will begin fitting the bottom of your foot. You may readjust your stitches so the sole is on one side and the instep on the other side.  You can then remove the markers and shaping the toe will be easier.  You will need to use your stitch holder(s)  while repositioning since you are knitting 2 socks at once.  It isn’t necessary to do this - just an option.  If you don’t do this, keep your markers in so you will know where to decrease while shaping the toe.

Shape Toe

Decrease round:

Decreases will be made at the beginning and end at each side.  This will be before and after your markers if you left your sock(s) in the gusset-knitting position.  If you repositioned them, the decreases will be at the beginning and end of each side.

At the beginning of each side, K1, SSK.  Knit to 3 stitches from end of side and K2tog, K1.  Repeat for each side of both socks.

Knit one round plain.

Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have 18 stitches remaining on each side of your circular for each sock. Then decrease on every round for 3 rounds until you have 12 stitches on each side.  (If you want a more rounded toe, stop after 2 rounds or when you have 14 sts left on each side.) 

Cut off the yarn leaving a 24" tail. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch (see instructions on following page) or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. The Kitchener stitch weaves the stitches together so you will see no seam at all!  I encourage you to try this – just follow each step of the instructions very carefully! Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out). Enjoy!