Knit all stitches for 1 round following the pattern rows before knitting heel flap.  

You should end up with 30 stitches on one needle and 33 on the other needle.  We will make the heel flap on the 33-stitch side - increasing it one stitch to a total of 34 stitches.  

Knit one more round, increasing on the last stitch by knitting through both the front and back loops.

Heel Flap:
 You will be working back and forth on the side with 34 stitches.  The other half of the stitches will become the instep.  For now, they will rest on the cable ~ just ignore them.  If you are using one long cable, you will NOT pull the back needle forward to begin the first row of the heel.  Instead, you will keep the back stitches on the needle point and use the other needle point to purl the first row across, etc.  

NOTE:  If you are knitting both socks at one time, you will work the heel flaps for both socks, then turn first one heel and then the other, as described in my basic circular sock pattern.

Work the heel flap back and forth over the 34 stitches as follows:

Row 1: Working on the wrong side, slip first stitch purl wise then purl across the back of the heel flap. Turn.

Row 2: Slip first stitch purl wise, knit 1, slip 1 across, ending with a knit stitch. Turn.

Row 3: Slip first stitch purl wise then purl across the back of the heel flap to the last stitch – knit
            the last stitch. Turn. (Repeat of row 1)

Row 4: Slip first two stitches, knit 1 slip 1 across ending with Knit last 2 stitches.  Turn.

(This heel is called “Eye of Partridge” stitch and makes a cushiony, longer lasting heel.  Knitting the last stitch both directions will give you a better edge to pick up the gusset stitches from both sides of heel.)

Repeat these 4 rows until your heel is approximately 2 ½ inches long.  End with a purl row.

Turning The Heel:
You will be making short rows to shape a little "cup" for the heel.   Remember: one sock at a time if you are knitting two socks at the same time!

Row 1: Slip1, K 19, ssk, k 1, turn. (See instructions for SSK below.)

Row 2: Slip 1, p 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 3: Slip 1, k 8, ssk, k 1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1, p 9, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 5: Slip 1, k 10, ssk, k 1, turn.

Row 6: Slip 1, p 11, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Continue in this way, working 1 more stitch between decreases until all 34 stitches have been worked.  You should have 20 sts. remaining and end on a PURL row.

Turn sock and knit across these 20 stitches.  

Next you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again.  

PLEASE NOTE:  if you are knitting 2 socks at one time, please refer to my basic sock instructions for picking up gusset stitches and repositioning the socks.  Click here!
 
To Pick up Gusset Stitches:  
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a nice edge that will be easy to pick up. You should pick up approx. 20-22 stitches on each side.  The important thing is to pick up the same number of stitches on each side of each sock!  Examine your sock carefully as you do this and pick enough stitches up to avoid having “holes” show.

To pick up the stitches, just reach under each sideways “V” of  the slipped stitches (so you are going under 2 the strands of yarn that lay on the edge) and pull your yarn through to make a new stitch on your needle.  If it is difficult for you to pull the yarn through, consider using a crochet hook to “catch” the yarn and then place it on your needlepoint.

After you have picked up the gusset stitches on the first side of the heel, place a marker here (to help with gusset decrease positioning) and continue knitting HALF (14) of the instep stitches and then pull your needle and cable through.  This will be the new “splitting point” while you knit the gusset of your sock. 

Then knit the other HALF of the instep stitches, place a marker, and pick up the same number of gusset stitches on the other side of the heel.  Knit half of the heel stitches and pull the needle through.  This will be the other “splitting point” now.

Knit one round and pull stitches back to home.  Place a marker (or just tie a bit of yarn through one of the stitches) on this first side (with socks positioned as in photo above) to indicate that this side is the beginning side for knitting the gusset. Continue with instructions for the gusset below.

Gusset
You need to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get to the same number of stitches on each side of the sock:  30.  These increases and decreases will be made in relationship to the markers.

Decrease Round: Knit to 3 sts before the end of heel stitches (indicated by the marker), K2tog, K1.  Knit across the instep sts.  Turn to other side. Knit instep stitches to next marker.  Following the marker, knit 1 SSK, knit remaining heel stitches.  Turn to other side.

Knit next round plain.
 
Repeat Decease Round every other round until you have 56 sts left for each sock (or the same number of stitches you began with, so you have an equal number of stitches on both sides).   The number of rounds to this point will depend on how many gusset stitches you picked up along the side of each heel.  As you make more pairs of socks, you will get a better idea of how long you should knit your heel flaps and how many stitches you should pick up to get the perfect fit for you.

Foot
Continue with stockinette stitch until the foot measures 2½" to 3” less than your foot length.  Measure from the heel where it will begin fitting the bottom of your foot. You may readjust your stitches so the sole is on one side and the instep on the other side.  You can then remove the markers and shaping the toe will be easier.  It isn’t necessary to do this, just an option.  If you don’t do this, keep your markers in so you will know where to decrease while shaping the toe.

Shape Toe  
Decrease round:  
Decreases will be made at the beginning and end at each side.  This will be before and after your markers if you left your sock(s) in the gusset-knitting position.  If you repositioned them, the decreases will be at the beginning and end of each side.  

At the beginning of each side, K1, SSK.  Knit to 3 sts from end of side and K2tog, K1.  Repeat for each side of both socks.

Knit one round plain.

Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (14 on each side of your circular for each sock). Then decrease on every round for 4 rounds until you have 20 sts left for each sock, or 10 on each side.  (If you want a more rounded toe, stop after 2 rounds or when you have 12 sts left on each side.) 

Cut off the yarn ends for both socks leaving 24" tails. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with yarn tail for first sock and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch (see instructions on following page) or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. The Kitchener stitch weaves the stitches together so you will see no seam at all!  I encourage you to try this – just follow each step of the instructions very carefully!  Repeat for second sock. Weave the ends of the yarn at both cuff and toe carefully into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).  Make sure your yarn doesn’t show through to the front.  You will have to be even more careful if you may fold the ribbing down like a cuff.  Enjoy!